Irish Climbing Inter-varsities 2017 Rules

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Rules

 

BOULDERING

  • Hands on taped starting holds
  • No French starts
  • hold top hold for 3 seconds both hands
  • 10,7,5,3 points for goes (with 3 being unlimited tries)
  • scoring system (when you tick for a problem get another climber to sign it on the right to verify you got the problem)
  • tally the total
  • out of 250 (25 problems)
  • same problems for everyone

 

LEAD/TR

  • two routes, one go on each
  • TIME CONSTRAINED (because ozone), 3 calls if you don’t come in time you don’t climb
  • climb order by boulder score rank, worst score first
  • allowances may be made if you can be fitted in at the end of your category
  • must clip every clip (if leading), no skipping
  • first bolt clipped for safety
  • highpoint based on holds NOT clips
  • Completing a route is worth 100 points, holding last hold is 99, then -2 points for each hold below that, ie. second last hold is 97 points
  • Completing a route is CLIPPING CHAINS (snap gate) holding onto the last hold, not the top of the wall! (LEAD) or TAPPING CHAINS (TR)
  • top hold is 99, 97,95 (depending on number of holds)
  • must have the hold in control (not a slap, actual hold/use to move on) to get the point value of the hold.  No half-way points between holds
  • 3 MARKERS PER ROUTE, 3 UNIS, VOLUNTEERS
  • obviously can switch out if they need to climb
  • tally the total out of 200

 

SOLO WEIGHTING

  • Boulder comp score gets scaled down from 250 max to 200 max ie 180/250 goes to 144/200
  • Lead Climbing is 100 points per completed route, total 200, (2 routes for each category)
  • Total score is out of 400.

 

TEAM WEIGHTING

  • top 3 in each category
  • done by RANK after final score
  • LOWEST AVERAGE RANK FOR TEAM decides winner

Eg. QUB

MALE FEMALE MALE FRESHER FEMALE FRESHER
Rank 1 2 19 1
12 4 20 2
20 5 55 3

 

Averaged rank FOR THE TEAM is (144/12) = 12

So if UCD av rank is 10, they place better in the team scores

  • if you don’t have 3 in all the cats, you don’t qualify
  • if you don’t climb for both events you can’t contribute to the team score
  • that means no using good boulderers who get hungover, but still score 190 boulder, and 0 lead/TR

 

FRESHER OR EXPERIENCED

  •  “fresher” does Top rope, “experienced” does lead
  • fresher is a person new to climbing not just new to the club
  • that means they started climbing when they joined your club and they joined between now and September 2016
  • that means if you climbed for several years before joining a club you are in the lead comp

SPECIAL CASES

  • you have climbed longer than a year but can’t/won’t lead climb?  You can’t be in the fresher Cat, not fair to them, so lead or don’t climb on the route day at all.
  • you are a particularly strong fresher who CAN lead climb?  Cool, you can choose to compete       in the experience cat if you want, but you can also compete in the fresher cat, where you will do better, but it’s up to you.  MUST DECLARE CATEGORY IN THE BOULDER ROUND THOUGH,  make a choice and stick to it