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#1772

tprebs
Keymaster

I will let Cadden write up his impressive list of leads in peak and just do mine.

Sunday –

After a long days traveling on saturday everyone got an early night and was ready and raring to go on sunday. We dandered up from the camp site to stanage and obviously the first thing that caught my eye was a classic jamming crack.

Hell Crack VS 4b ***

Nice grit jamming through a bulge. will spit out those not confident with there jamming! jamming cracks first thing in the morning arent a good idea and numb hands followed.

Time to move away from the cracks and onto the grit slopers

The Louisiana Rib VS 4c **

A great way to get confidence in friction and climbing above gear. A couple of delicate moves gets the heart pumping and the psych going.

The rock is now warm and the psych flowing.

Saliva E1 5b **

Time to start pushing the mind a bit further and get on something a little bold. the helmets on and were off. the only bit of gear for the first 5 metres and the crux is placed from the ground. How the hell did this get graded VS when it was done originally! Nice moves up a finger crack before a gearless 5 metre sloping diagonal traverse on small foot holds followed with a nut placed below your feet and seated by standing on it. Spicy and fun with a mildly terrifying finish due to ridiculous winds!

Morrison’s Redoubt E1 5b **

Continuing the bold theme we moved onto Morrisons Redoubt, a fun delicate little number which involved conor choosing a ledge to jump off in case I deemed it wise to fall. fun moves off small holds followed by easy but enjoyable climbing!

Day one over, lots of climbing done and haven’t been spanked by the grit… yet

Monday – Return of the grit

Back up to stanage we romped with Campbell at the helm setting a rather stiff pace! we were Dover wall bound

Nothing to do with Dover HVS 5a *
A great route to start the day. Juggy (Depending on what your opinion of jugs are) and overhanging, definitely got the blood pumping. One of the routes that helped coin the commonly used term of ‘grit jug’ meaning a sloper with damn awesome friction.

with psych and confidence high I jumped on Spearing the bearded clam E2 5c (awesome name) then was promptly thrown off into the hands of Cadden. In an attempt to stop me losing psych I stood up and started up the E1 next to it, On a Wing and a Prayer and was caught by cadden yet again. Determined not to lose psych I went round the corner onto the worryingly named route Taking a Winger

Taking a Winger E1 5b (Now given E2 5C)

3rd time lucky! in an attempt to keep psych and confidence I dragged myself up the bold slopey start to an unpleasant mantel and an easy finish. Psych not regained but atleast I got up something!

I continued my horrible form with slopey bold E1s by trying Pedlars Rib E1 5c, which was truly terrifying! no gear for the first 8 metres with the crux high up. needless to say Cadden caught me in his long gangly arms again.

Pedlars Slab HVS 5C

After so many fails with a rope tied round my waste I deemed it a good idea to ditch the rope to solo Pedlars slab. Truly lovely delicate climbing which helped get my head back in the game!

Fit as a butchers dog E1 5c

After all this falling off slopy bold crap the logical thing to do is find the nearest hard roof crack. Brutal thuggy grunting on painful jams left me about a quart low on blood and requiring skin grafts. nether the; less I won the battle and made it through the roof only to find that the route is hardly ever climbed and is filthy. unpleasant long reaches on dirty slippy slopers and poor gear made me never want to go near this route again

It was getting late so became time for soloing by sunlight, which made for a lovely end to the day. Grit had definitely fought back throwing me off 50% of the routes I tried.

Tuesday – back with a vengeance

the morning ritual is now starting to take shape. guineafowl alarm clock at 6:30 read till 7:30 coffee and chatting shite till 9 then slog up to stanage again.

not to be deterred by previous failings we got back on the grit.

Leaning Buttress direct HVS 5b ***

A top 50 route and worth it. Nothing gets you psyched like lovely enjoyable climbing. A tricky start followed by good gear and a couple of pulls on small holds then nice climbing to the top. Just awesome

Rusty Crack HVS 5C Solo

Thinking this was Via Media, a route I climbed 3 years ago I decided to solo it while waiting for cadden to pick his next route. Turns out I got the wrong route which confused me greatly. I couldnt work out why I found it do hard until stuart informed me of what it was. instead of a few 4c moves scattered throughout the route it was a 5c sequence to get off the ground with a couple of trickyish moves higher up. oops

Via Dexter direct E2 5C *

To the right of Rusty crack and Via media is a rather nice looking slab. unlike most grit, it has razor sharp crimps and underclings. A side runner in via media provides little protection and would probably not keep you off the ground if you fall off just above the crux unless your belayer takes a leap off a boulder. nice technical crimp climbing is fun but time for some brutal jamming…

The Unprintable E1 5b **

A must do route if you think you can jam. Brutal hanging groove gained with head height foot jams, kicking cams out the way as foot jams are more important, and heavy use of the knees until you can layback to glory.

Have to love jamming!

I have to catch my flight now but will finish this off … at some point!