Cottage weekend with UL
Fantastic weekend in the cottage with the limerick guys. Fri night, had the craic with the guys from limerick involving a bit of drinking and climbing dead trees in a quest for things to burn. Sat, most of the UL guys headed out on a walk while Steve McCaffrey, Eva, her sister, Davis from UL and myself set off for lower cove for more vertical pursuits:
Elvis, E3 6a, Davis, Dynosteve.
A nice wee route comprising a scary swing out of the roof on a solid jug followed by a series of awkward mantles on slopers and painful jams.
4th Corner, D, Eva, Steve McCaff.
Due to bad directions on my part the route was extended by 30m to a belay close to the start of the decent gully.
Given to Fly, E3 6a, Dynosteve, Davis.
An excellent if eliminate line up the right arete of brewers gloom. Questionable gear and a peg that seems to be held in the rock mainly by the prayers of the climber make it a test of will more than anything. The hardest part of the route is forcing yourself not to make the two moves to the left into brewers gloom and easier ground. This led into…
Brewers Corner, E1 5C, Dynosteve, Davis.
A one move wonder but worth the effort. After faffing below the crux for a good 5 minutes I finally managed to find a reasonable bit of gear that wasn’t a ball nut.
Swing Low, E1 5b 3c, Davis, Dynosteve.
Possibly one of the nicest E1s on cove though doing it in one pitch leads to insane rope drag. A combination of this ( which resulted in a constant 3 meters of slack in the rope ) and a shower while half way up made this an interesting one to second.
Brewers Gloom, S 3c 4a 3c, Dynosteve, Eva.
Decided to lead it in one pitch, BIG MISTAKE!
As people packed up I decided to go for a quick jaunt up 4th corner with a new finish. As it was soloed I cant say decisively but would be something like…
Dirty Limericks, HVS 5a?
From the heather ledge at the top of 4th corner attack the left hand wall directly below the bulge, delicate moves up the protruding crystals to the second horizontal break followed by a high rockover to a slopey finish.
Back to the cottage for alot more drinking and banter.
Things iv learned from the weekend:
- E3s on lower cove are hungry for manflesh.
- Casual sectarianism is something every mountaineering club has.
- I dont want to know what happens in the barn.
- This reply was modified 3 years, 9 months ago by Dynosteve.