April 26, 2014 at 18:17 #1862April 26, 2014 at 18:43 #1863April 26, 2014 at 22:15 #1873
If by handedness you mean whether on not the tail is on the outside or inside of the loop it makes no difference
The problem is how you tighten the thing, if you pull the the tail, the above happens if you tighten with long end of the rope this shouldn’t happen.
Other options are the Edwards finish and the fully rethreaded Bowline in the bightApril 26, 2014 at 23:01 #1875
Aye, I did. I couldn’t seem to get a left-handed bowline (tail on the outside) with a Yosemite finish to do the weird noose thing at all. Ah, well. Might start using the Edwards finish.April 27, 2014 at 02:04 #1876
try againApril 27, 2014 at 10:17 #1877
Fecken scary bowlines just waiting to kill you when your cold and tired.April 27, 2014 at 12:06 #1878
basically, as with any knot, if you tie it wrong it doesnt work…April 27, 2014 at 12:32 #1879
The problem isn’t tying it wrong, but the way in which you tighten it. If you pull the tail first, this could happen, but bowlines have a habit of loosening if not under tension, so this could happen anyway. Should still be grand with a stopper.
April 27, 2014 at 12:47 #1882
- This reply was modified 3 years, 7 months ago by The Club Cat.
This is how they do in the Deutschland. Common with sports climbers as it reduces wear on the rope when falling all the time. (threaded through the belay loop twice
Edwards finish seems like a clusterfuck. There is nothing wrong with the Yosemite finish you just have to do it properly.
As long as you don’t just do a bowline with a stopper not. If you are building an anchor and clip it into the rope loop, if someone fell it would invert the bowline undoing the bowlineApril 27, 2014 at 13:14 #1885
That’s weird. Don’t really see the advantage of threading through the belay loop rather than going through the ‘normal’ way.
Edwards is fine. Basically a left-handed bowline with a Yosemite finish and an extra loop back.
Yeah, I found that out when I was messing around with the thousand bowlines.April 27, 2014 at 13:45 #1891
I think he threaded through the belay loop to make it easier to explain in the video. Try falling repeatedly on an edwards finish. same issue as figure of 8.
I see no issues with the Yosemite finish but each to their own.April 27, 2014 at 14:22 #1892
Edwards is still non-jamming, so should be fine to undo after weighting. I’m just paranoid about using the most bombproof knot (that’s easy to untie after loading) possible, after someone died at my local wall back home using a (standard) bowline…
I believe @nbrowne uses the Edwards?April 27, 2014 at 14:23 #1893
Prebble, in this instance you are very wrong, The Edward’s finish does not tighten under load. It is my knot of choice and I fall all the time. With regard to “issues” the standard bowline is quite a loose knot when no load is applied, thats why we need to back it up in the first place! I can see the situation in the video arising if you use just the Yosemite finish and spend all day multi-pitching.
I posted this so we may instruct people correctly and perhaps reconsider just a Yosemite finish when doing long days. Worth knowing.
Alex, the edward’s finish can be tied on either “handed” bowline. It is in-fact neater on the standard knot. But you’re right this won’t happen when the left bowline is finished a la yosemite. I may start using that instead.
The take home message is that the Yosemite finish needs to be backed up.
As an aside if this does happen the loop turns into a slip knot which tightens on your harness so it should still hold. The issue is more serious if your second takes a fall and you’re belaying off the loop
Also the left bowline is called the Dutch bowline. so called because the dutch navy teach it over the standard know
Conor “knot nerd” GilmourApril 27, 2014 at 14:26 #1894
Someone has died doing EVERYTHING. You should therefore be paranoid about and stop doing EVERYTHINGApril 27, 2014 at 14:30 #1895
On an exciting note I just discovered a new rethread that is smaller than all the others mentioned here, doesn’t tighten under load and doesn’t do the video thing.
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