Fairhead

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This topic contains 8 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by  tprebs 2 years, 9 months ago.

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  • #2722
    +2

    tprebs
    Keymaster
    45p

    With an optimistic outlook on the weather, Cadden, Pedro, Andrew and I headed up the north coast through the rain to a perfectly dry Fairhead.  After our previous outing myself and Cadden (mostly myself) deemed it wise to actually warm up before tearing our tendons on the usual boulder circuit of failure. This worked out well as it game Andrew and Pedro an introduction to Fairhead on a couple of the classics.

    The standard Fair head introduction began with the Shelter stone boulder. Awesome slabby things on one side help you get used to the feel of the rock before moving onto ‘Brought to you by the letter M’, the hardest 5+ in existence. Overhanging committing moves that feels like you are miles off the ground looking down at a bouldering mat the size of a match stick. Impressive efforts from Andrew and Pedro with Andrew topping out and Pedro molesting the last hold a few times. after the letter M we went round the other side of the shelter stone to the huge slab. Not one to be falling off as its bigger than some routes in the peak district. If letter M warmed up the tendons then this warms up the mind. With everyone successfully not dying on the slab we continued the standard boulder circuit to Eat It Boulder. For once we were warmed up and moved straight onto Stop Feeding It (6b). Standing start went first go and it was time to go for the finger shredding Stop Feeding It sit start (7a) . Cadden blasted through it with the heel and toe hooks of a god. If the human daddy long legs did it then I had to do it so the next go I stole his ‘Long legged mac daddy’ beta for the sit start and topped out for victory.

    Pedro and Andrew worked there way through most the moves of the Standing start before Pedros calf became displeased with the immense heel hooks.

    Psyched with the unexpected success to to a gammy hand and still suffering from the remains of my ebola I sat down and had a break for a while. With resting clearly not in Caddens MO he jumped onto Eat It (7A) and few up it with gangly arms and legs flying everywhere. After a long rest meaning I had completely cooled down, and witnessing Caddens flawless gravity reducing logic I jumped on to Eat It. Sticking the first move every time I felt progress but it still feels horrid. Too many hours have been invested to give up. It shall be my nemesis.

    Tired and aching we headed back via a Golden Chip in Ballycastle. A rare successful day bouldering at Fairhead complete and now fully of psych for more bouldering. Hopefully the Fairhead newbies were psyched enough to come back!

    Boulder season has officially begun!

    Quote of the trip Conor Cadden ‘If you spin round really fast you will reduce gravity by 0.1 m/s’

    #2723

    Andrew
    Participant
    3p

    Awesome report, careful not to spin 98.1 times though, or we might all float off towards the moon

    #2724
    +1

    tprebs
    Keymaster
    45p

    We need to make sure Conor doesnt gain 98.1 friends otherwise the world is fucked. Maybe we should put him in a cage on the equator

    #2725

    Conor
    Participant
    9p

    Is it not “Eat it left” that is 7a, and plain “Eat it” is only like 6b/c?

    #2726

    Dynosteve
    Moderator
    3p

    I believe it is the case now that Eat It Left is 7a+, Eat It is 7a and what used to be Eat It ( which I think you are referring to, ie. without the big move right) is no longer a thing, though I may be wrong.

     

    #2727

    tprebs
    Keymaster
    45p

    Eat it left is 7a and eat it is ~ 6b but everyone calls eat it left eat it and eat it is just lazy mans eat it.

    left overs is the 7a+ that goes left of eat it.
    Eat it starts with the big move right
    lazy mans eat it is a hanging start on the rail

    #2728

    tprebs
    Keymaster
    45p

    and banquet is all three in a mega death linkup traverse

    #2729
    +1

    Peter
    Keymaster
    7p

    The real accomplishments for the day were:

    Ringtone – Cosmic
    Text – Tri-tone
    Mail – Ding
    Facebook alert – Swish

    #2759

    tprebs
    Keymaster
    45p

    Indeed Peter. Cosmic was a huge breakthrough

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