October 27, 2014 at 12:32 #2722
With an optimistic outlook on the weather, Cadden, Pedro, Andrew and I headed up the north coast through the rain to a perfectly dry Fairhead. After our previous outing myself and Cadden (mostly myself) deemed it wise to actually warm up before tearing our tendons on the usual boulder circuit of failure. This worked out well as it game Andrew and Pedro an introduction to Fairhead on a couple of the classics.
The standard Fair head introduction began with the Shelter stone boulder. Awesome slabby things on one side help you get used to the feel of the rock before moving onto ‘Brought to you by the letter M’, the hardest 5+ in existence. Overhanging committing moves that feels like you are miles off the ground looking down at a bouldering mat the size of a match stick. Impressive efforts from Andrew and Pedro with Andrew topping out and Pedro molesting the last hold a few times. after the letter M we went round the other side of the shelter stone to the huge slab. Not one to be falling off as its bigger than some routes in the peak district. If letter M warmed up the tendons then this warms up the mind. With everyone successfully not dying on the slab we continued the standard boulder circuit to Eat It Boulder. For once we were warmed up and moved straight onto Stop Feeding It (6b). Standing start went first go and it was time to go for the finger shredding Stop Feeding It sit start (7a) . Cadden blasted through it with the heel and toe hooks of a god. If the human daddy long legs did it then I had to do it so the next go I stole his ‘Long legged mac daddy’ beta for the sit start and topped out for victory.
Pedro and Andrew worked there way through most the moves of the Standing start before Pedros calf became displeased with the immense heel hooks.
Psyched with the unexpected success to to a gammy hand and still suffering from the remains of my ebola I sat down and had a break for a while. With resting clearly not in Caddens MO he jumped onto Eat It (7A) and few up it with gangly arms and legs flying everywhere. After a long rest meaning I had completely cooled down, and witnessing Caddens flawless gravity reducing logic I jumped on to Eat It. Sticking the first move every time I felt progress but it still feels horrid. Too many hours have been invested to give up. It shall be my nemesis.
Tired and aching we headed back via a Golden Chip in Ballycastle. A rare successful day bouldering at Fairhead complete and now fully of psych for more bouldering. Hopefully the Fairhead newbies were psyched enough to come back!
Boulder season has officially begun!
Quote of the trip Conor Cadden ‘If you spin round really fast you will reduce gravity by 0.1 m/s’October 27, 2014 at 12:44 #2723
Awesome report, careful not to spin 98.1 times though, or we might all float off towards the moonOctober 27, 2014 at 12:48 #2724
We need to make sure Conor doesnt gain 98.1 friends otherwise the world is fucked. Maybe we should put him in a cage on the equatorOctober 27, 2014 at 14:58 #2725
Is it not “Eat it left” that is 7a, and plain “Eat it” is only like 6b/c?October 27, 2014 at 15:05 #2726
I believe it is the case now that Eat It Left is 7a+, Eat It is 7a and what used to be Eat It ( which I think you are referring to, ie. without the big move right) is no longer a thing, though I may be wrong.October 27, 2014 at 15:39 #2727
Eat it left is 7a and eat it is ~ 6b but everyone calls eat it left eat it and eat it is just lazy mans eat it.
left overs is the 7a+ that goes left of eat it.
Eat it starts with the big move right
lazy mans eat it is a hanging start on the railOctober 27, 2014 at 15:41 #2728
and banquet is all three in a mega death linkup traverseOctober 27, 2014 at 16:37 #2729
The real accomplishments for the day were:
Ringtone – Cosmic
Text – Tri-tone
Mail – Ding
Facebook alert – SwishOctober 29, 2014 at 13:29 #2759
Indeed Peter. Cosmic was a huge breakthrough
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