Tbh, I thought the reaction to the pre-placed gear was a bit dickish. I get the whole ethnics thing, but it was still the first ground-up ascent, and they were the only ones anywhere near it. I just felt they were pressured into doing something super dangerous without the respect they deserved for free-climbing the silly thing.
Ethics play a big part of trad climbing. I understand what they were saying in terms of it not having a first ascent as the ethics for traditional climbing are that you place your gear on lead. Its not sport climbing. Its like top roping a route that hasn’t been done before and claiming the first ascent, you just can’t. Its still an incredible ascent but the real first ascent of the route was when they did it placing the gear on lead.
* They weren’t pressured into doing something super dangerous. They chose the stripped down rack which increased the danger of the route.
Aye, I get all that, it just came across as them being jealous, at least to me.
We all know I’m a bit of a jessie, but I think, due to the nature of the climb, unless you place gear every metre, that route has a fair element of risk. A roof crack only a few metres above the deck, dangling head first, followed by a super strenuous overhang on sketchy holds, most of which you’re inverted for…