Prebble, in this instance you are very wrong, The Edward’s finish does not tighten under load. It is my knot of choice and I fall all the time. With regard to “issues” the standard bowline is quite a loose knot when no load is applied, thats why we need to back it up in the first place! I can see the situation in the video arising if you use just the Yosemite finish and spend all day multi-pitching.
I posted this so we may instruct people correctly and perhaps reconsider just a Yosemite finish when doing long days. Worth knowing.
Alex, the edward’s finish can be tied on either “handed” bowline. It is in-fact neater on the standard knot. But you’re right this won’t happen when the left bowline is finished a la yosemite. I may start using that instead.
The take home message is that the Yosemite finish needs to be backed up.
As an aside if this does happen the loop turns into a slip knot which tightens on your harness so it should still hold. The issue is more serious if your second takes a fall and you’re belaying off the loop
Also the left bowline is called the Dutch bowline. so called because the dutch navy teach it over the standard know
Conor “knot nerd” Gilmour