Reply To: Fairhead Routes

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Went to Fair Head yesterday with Lisa. Despite the onshore wind totally forgot to bring midge repellent down to the base of [b]Hurricane (E2 5b)[/b].  This was mistake no. 1. Began climbing Hurricane. Forgot also that onshore wind+July=mighty humid. Sweaty sweat sweat, mistake no. 2. But this was grand, nice climb, some tricky moves, getting into the jamming nicely. I reach the crux, which is a jamming crack through a roof, and because I’ve been climbing in a niche for the last while I don’t realise it’s started raining. So that’s where the midges went. Mistake no. 3.

Sat with both feet on a decent-ish foothold hanging on a jam getting progressively more calf-pump for 10 minutes. It just gets wetter. Bang in some cams and lower off. 5 mins later it dries up. Mistake no. 4.

Lisa has a go at the bit I climbed on toprope while I take a turn at getting eaten alive. She gets to the little roof and rain starts again. Lower off and we go for an adventure along the base of Fair Head to get to the Grey Man’s Path. I hate going for adventures along the base of Fair Head. This time I get a tic bite for my trouble.

No way in hell am I doing that walk out twice in one day (expecially on wet grass/scree) so we set up an anchor and Lisa lowers me down Hurricane to the gear then I toprope out. So I suppose I did climb the route, after a fashion. Tis a great route, lots of reasonably sustained jamming. I shall have to return and climb it properly.


Go home and have barbeque and wine. Success no. 1.