Fairhead Routes

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    As there isn’t  a thread for Fairhead routes I thought I would start one! (even though we didnt really finish any routes at the weekend!)

    Ignoring the forecasts for rain in the morning we ventured up to Fair head anyway! This was the wettest I have ever seen the head and it was still raining when we arrived so we went boulder hopping across the bottom of Fairhead and waited for it to dry. While giving Roisin a guided tour of fairhead we made our way across the bottom of the cliff and landed at Greymans path. after looking over at the incredible White lightning amphitheatre we scrambled up the grey mans path and headed back to see if the small crag was dry.

    Someone where along the way we forgot what dry looked like and owen and Stuart deemed it wise to try and climb some routes. As the saints we are, roisin and I offered to belay them/laugh.

    Clean Break 12m VS (4c) Owen, tprebs

    A valiant effort in a crack which was soaking. A wise decision was taken to back off.

    Plan 9 from Outer Space * 14m HVS (5b) Stuart, Roisin 

    Stuart gave this tricky little number one hell of an effort before bridging on lubricated walls became too much. Aid climbing was the next approach, getting some quality big wall training. eventually the wet rock prevailed and owen abbed in to get the gear back.

    Lessons learned: rain > climbers

    The Club Cat

    I have already learned that lesson…


    Went to Fair Head yesterday with Lisa. Despite the onshore wind totally forgot to bring midge repellent down to the base of [b]Hurricane (E2 5b)[/b].  This was mistake no. 1. Began climbing Hurricane. Forgot also that onshore wind+July=mighty humid. Sweaty sweat sweat, mistake no. 2. But this was grand, nice climb, some tricky moves, getting into the jamming nicely. I reach the crux, which is a jamming crack through a roof, and because I’ve been climbing in a niche for the last while I don’t realise it’s started raining. So that’s where the midges went. Mistake no. 3.

    Sat with both feet on a decent-ish foothold hanging on a jam getting progressively more calf-pump for 10 minutes. It just gets wetter. Bang in some cams and lower off. 5 mins later it dries up. Mistake no. 4.

    Lisa has a go at the bit I climbed on toprope while I take a turn at getting eaten alive. She gets to the little roof and rain starts again. Lower off and we go for an adventure along the base of Fair Head to get to the Grey Man’s Path. I hate going for adventures along the base of Fair Head. This time I get a tic bite for my trouble.

    No way in hell am I doing that walk out twice in one day (expecially on wet grass/scree) so we set up an anchor and Lisa lowers me down Hurricane to the gear then I toprope out. So I suppose I did climb the route, after a fashion. Tis a great route, lots of reasonably sustained jamming. I shall have to return and climb it properly.


    Go home and have barbeque and wine. Success no. 1.

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