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We have always talked about this but it has never happened… people are never happy when we talk about a full wall reset because ‘i am projecting route blah on panel zah’. Well If we say we are removing the route on a given date then there is added motivation to ‘send’ it.
Plan. Over the next week I am going to make a diagram of the wall with all the non broken bolts marked on. I will put an images up for all the panels. people can then forward plan the routes they are going to set and we can collate them and have a full day where we are setting, if you explain the style of route you want to do and roughly how hard it is then we will be able to get a good spread of routes ~(styles an grades).
an alternative idea for this is (for the easier routes) set in pairs. This is something I did with the oit back in the day and it was awesome. every time one person adds a couple more holds then comes down and the next person top ropes up to that point then adds more moves/ can adjust previous ones. The result is routes that flow really nicely as you are constantly climbing them from bottom up. This doesnt work as well on harder routes and can take a while.
If you think this is shit or a good idea then speak up. The wall could benefit with a full reset and if it works well then we could have a structure in place for doing this again in the future.
I think this is a good idea. As I personally wont be able to go down to set I won’t be pissy if other people do/don’t but as a concept this could work really well.
Would also be nice to see new people setting routes other than the regular few
Thats the plan. the images will be available online so anyone could come up with ideas for new routes and if we get a good number of people down at the wall then it could work really well
Diagram is a great idea – means we can maximise the amount of routes on the wall in advance so that the only bolt holes not in use are the ones that are broken and not a mixture of usable and unusable ones.
I do believe we should be changing the wall more often than we are at the minute (I am also aware that I do not have loads of time to call down and set due to my workload at the minute). We have a few more keen and interested setters (Andrew with his 7b route on the Everest etc), so we should be encouraging this by making the wall available to set properly on.
Interested by that pair up method Prebble – never seen that done.
Also, schedule the reset for a few days after the Boulder Comp. Also liase with John/Ronan with regards to the courses so that there is no issues.
The pairing up works best with bouldering. come up with better problems as you are putting more brains behind it.
Sounds like a pan. Get John/Ronan to outline what panels need easier stuff. Same idea works for the cave also. What traverses are needed etc. If we can get hold of another drill or two the wall can be stripped back in no time. Any chance we can get it done on a Saturday/Sunday as I will be working weekdays.
Great plan.
Most of my assignments should be over soon, so setting on a weekend is absolutely brilliant for me.
I know it’s probably too hard to organise, but some sort of proper setting schedule would make things much easier.
Do it. If it’s after 20 Dec, I’m up for it.
Bear in mind that the courses run until 15 December, so best doing it after then
I plan on checking all the bolts on Thursday as I am England till then. Who else is going to be about ~21st?
It’s looking like I’ll be back in England on 21st. Depending on my housing situation, I may be able to stick around for a bit.
A full wall reset sounds good, be nice to have some fresh routes to try. I would gladly help strip/set, however I’m away form 20th until the new year if that’s when you are planning to do it. I wouldn’t mind having a go at setting a bouldering problem though, and pairing up sounds like a great idea!
Btw, when is the bouldering competition?
Bouldering comp is Tuesday 10th.
Setting bouldering problems is horrendously hard work. So much locking off…
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