- November 10, 2014 at 13:33 #2848
I’m aware we’re a bit behind this year, so are we going to start teaching leading this week?November 10, 2014 at 14:04 #2849
Need to gauge first just how far behind we are? Are people confident to belay on their own yet? Are all the basics taught?
Technique workshops being run on Wednesdays in Boulderworld?November 10, 2014 at 14:18 #2850
I didn’t think we were particularly far behind… In my year, I didn’t learn to lead until January, and I was really pushing for it as I was competent at climbing anyway.
I believe most people have learned, but are still being tailed.
Last time I went to BW, I was just happy to be climbing, so didn’t really pay attention to how much teaching was going on.
So, I’d say no to teaching leading this week; maybe next week for those who’re super keen.
November 10, 2014 at 14:54 #2852Stuart90Moderator
- This reply was modified 5 years ago by The Club Cat.
wouldn’t have said we were behind either….
people have learnt how to belay and abseil by donegal
surely it is usually around Christmas before anyone is leading…
in fact i think many freshers learnt just before spain/scotland depending on which trip they were on last 2 years.November 10, 2014 at 14:56 #2853tprebsKeymaster
We are a behind but not massively so. But then again I havent been down much so don’t know what has been taught.
Have we done the stuff we normally do early one, i.e. different ‘stations’ with easy problems showing different techniques and the same for different hold types and how to use them? we normally do it in one night.
Once that’s done and people can belay confidently we can take small groups and teach them leading as and when people are ready to learn to lead.
The time lines of each year change in terms of teaching. My year there were a couple of groups who were taught to lead before Donegal. It all depends on how psyched the people climbing are and if there are people willing to teach. We normally teach leading from November through Jan though.
I have gone over a few techniquey things last week at BW with freshers but its a one on one basis. We need a technique workshop (different techniques and holds) for everyone at the PEC. That may have already happened thoughNovember 10, 2014 at 14:59 #2854
Edit. +1 to Prebble.
I remember starting to learn to lead before Donegal. We had Freshers lead belaying on the Donegal trip (with supervision)
Some people are confident belaying on their own. No reason we can’t start teaching those that are ready to lead ( which, granted, isn’t that many yet, but it saves doing it in one massive go if we do it by degrees).
Would certainly prioritise lead belaying over abseiling in future, as it’s more useful for the Donegal trip. I remember being taught to abseil on the DOnegal trip.
We’re not that far behind really, just a week or two. Technique workshops would be good but probably better to do them at PEC(?). Also, are we having a boulder comp with Jtown?
November 10, 2014 at 15:25 #2856
- This reply was modified 5 years ago by RonanK.
Personally, I think abseiling is useful to get everyone used to some rope mechanics, so I’d still reckon on teaching it before lead belay.
IF people are psyched, and IF they’re competent, then yes, start teaching lead, but I don’t want to start pushing it properly just yet.
I’d planned to do techniquey stuff at the pec last Thursday, but no one was at all interested, and I had no time to prepare anyway. Doubt I can organise it this week either (if anyone else wants to?).
Yes to boulder comp, but we need to decide how we want to do it. Was thinking we could talk to Eddie about running a couple of rounds at BW. Might be worth doing one round at the pec to gauge interest before we commit to paying for that, though?November 10, 2014 at 15:33 #2858
Re: Bouldering Competition
Contact Gareth Brown and perhaps ask him to organise it this year. Here’s why:
- We have run the competition since it’s inception, including getting prizes and venues etc.
- Since Gareth and his year group (Alastair/John Geary/Jonny Graham etc) took over running the club, there has been a gradual decline in numbers from their side coming to events we have run. The last time that we had a massive turnout from Jordanstown for an event (Bouldering Competition/Reel Rock) was when Fiona was their President (which was when they ran the Varsities). There was more of a closeness between the clubs then which I think has now dissolved since they took over. It is as if they cannot be arsed being involved!
- If they organise it, we will show up, but we will not loose out on any money (a plus!)
It also will reduce the headache on you (given that you are in final year). Pawn it off on them, and if it doesn’t happen then it’s their fault and not us!
Your call though, but I would focus on doing what you are doing in the development officer role and avoid taking on too much!November 10, 2014 at 16:34 #2860
Good shout about palming it off… How much was the setting for varsities again? About £180 was it?November 10, 2014 at 16:34 #2861
Fair point Niall, We can leave it to them – and if they don’t actually organise anything then we can do our own one perhaps.November 10, 2014 at 16:36 #2862OwenLParticipant
Don’t think ys are behind in teaching. Top rope belays can be taught to large numbers but learning leading and l/belaying depends on the person. Some people learn indoor leading in 3 days others will learn over 3 years.
Wouldn’t worry too much about the comp but it never hurts to have problems set as long as they’re good (and at a range of levels). As Niall suggests it’s more important to encourage and teach whatever people are able and pysched for.November 10, 2014 at 16:39 #2863AnonymousInactiveNovember 10, 2014 at 16:57 #2864
@The Club Cat: £150 was budgeted for setting, but overall it was included in the payment made to Eddie.
I just think that now is a good time to see if UUJ really want to be involved with us on cross-club activities, or are they just using us to provide possible activities/events because they can’t organise a piss up in a brewery. It’s also because you are doing lots in the development role on top of doing your masters, so trying to liase with them to organise a bouldering competition would just be a complete melt!
I’m indifferent. Your call. If a keen and eager fresher wants to learn, I’m happy to teach it (as I’m sure everybody else here is). I’m grand to follow whatever set plan we have as well!November 10, 2014 at 16:59 #2866CeciliaParticipant
I don’t think we’re behind at all, last week I was still teaching some new people how to tie in. I’m pretty sure a small group of people is ready to belay by themselves and they could possibly start to learn something about lead climbing and lead belaying but I would only teach it to a small group, the majority of freshers is not ready yet.
I think that the technique session is very important and should be organised soon. I’m very busy at the minute but I’m happy to help as much as I can, and I think it should be done at the PEC maybe next week or so?
As for the bouldering competition, if you think leaving it to Jordanstown is a good idea then yes, but seeing how much interest they put into it last year then I wouldn’t be surprised if they don’t do anything about it. In case it doesn’t happen then I think that organising our own little one is a good idea.
Your Italian favourite <3November 10, 2014 at 17:16 #2871
Yay for all the constructive ideas. Technique session as a priority then perhaps? Usual stations etc. Not fair to lump it on Alex to do.
Is Contswold night happening next Tues? If not then we could do technique then.
I’m happy to start teaching leading tomorrow to a handful of people if they’re ready for it – I know of one or two that are.
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