New Waterproof

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    I’ve been a bit of an Ebaneezer Scrooge lately. I’ve decided to loosen the purse strings a little and am looking for a new waterproof jacket.

    After some browsing, I’ve narrowed it down to two (unless someone can point out something just as awesome). I’d appreciate any input that can help make the choice.

    Bare in mind that I’ll be going to Qinghai again next summer, so the jacket will be put through snowy conditions, as well as the usual shit we get here in (Northern) Ireland.

    So now that that’s cleared up, here are the contenders (in no particular order):—849/—854/

    • This topic was modified 7 years, 2 months ago by Kevin.

    Rab Latok Alpine?

    Mine works great, Thomas, Aimee and Michael have it too – seems to do the job well.


    Last I met Aimee in her coat she had storm flaps meaning she had the Latok not the Latok alpine. Completely different coat.

    I have no concept of how much abuse Q#sdkjtha (asian place) will be on your jacket but my 40 denier jacket has been Scotland, Two alps trips, Bouldering on Grit e.t.c 4 years old and hasn’t got a single hole in it. Can’t see you needing anything heavier.

    Hence I vote Tupilak.

    Only difference is that the Changabang is more hefty.


    Well, Qinghai is the same province in China I was in this year, although that province is like the size of France… Except this time, where we’re going is more avalanche prone. And I quote, “We’re going to go here, because nothing serious happened last time, so we can afford to go to a more dangerous place.” During the Skype call, the guy pulled out a map and planted his hand on the map. “Here… It’s more remote, and it’s more dangerous, and it’s only been visited a few times before. There’s potential to do new stuff. It’s good because there’s about 20 6000m peaks and only half of them have been done.”

    Anyways, back to the jackets… What about the snow skirt and extra pockets, length and different fits (mountain and alpine)? I was expecting something more constructive from you, Michael.



    Keep being a Scrooge- if you’re using it for Scottish and Alpine it probably won’t last longer than two years, regardless of pricetag* (freeze thaw of condensation + rubbing on Rock + Hoar + Axes + Screws), so there’s no point in throwing money down the drain. Though waterproof zips can be a pain in the neck (or the butt- depending on where they are) when conditions hit freezing [your balls off].


    *Although Ask Kilroy. Whatever he’s got has done him very well for the last 4+ years- either a Rab or an ME.


    Id get the Lhotse, it has better pockets than the tupilac, in more sensible places for putting your hands in. also is £300 so the cheapest of the three. i have the work one at the moment if you would like to borrow it, keep meaning to leave it back!



    Alek – Kilroy recently upgraded his waterproof from a Crux to a ME Tupilak.

    Kevin, to be honest it is six to one and half a dozen the other between the two jackets in all honesty. Both are made of the same material and are reinforced in particular areas (i.e designed for mountaineering/climbing in).

    Changabang has removable snow skirt, Tupliak has an Alpine fit (slimmer, less of a baggy feel), both have a helmet comparable hood.

    If you are set on getting one of the two, then I would say get the Tupilak for the simple fact that it is £70 cheaper for basically the same jacket.

    FYI: The ME Lhotse is £300 and again would be fit for everything that you would be hoping to do.



    Being someone Who knows nothing about waterproofs and sees spending more than £100 on them as ridiculous, I would recommend  a combination of British wools, cotton ventile and tweed. a hello of a lot cheaper and it got Mallory and Irvine within at least 2000ft of the top of everest and as you wont be going that high then you should be grand. It’l harden ye!

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