- April 20, 2014 at 13:02 #1770tprebsKeymaster
People are slowly recovering from the assault on our skin that the peak gave us and will soon be able to type again. This thread is for the routes done in the peak district if you can remember them all!!April 20, 2014 at 13:18 #1771ConorParticipant
Is this because you forgot the routes you did and want a copy of my list because you know I marked down my seconds? :p Also will put up list later tonight.April 20, 2014 at 15:55 #1772tprebsKeymaster
I will let Cadden write up his impressive list of leads in peak and just do mine.
After a long days traveling on saturday everyone got an early night and was ready and raring to go on sunday. We dandered up from the camp site to stanage and obviously the first thing that caught my eye was a classic jamming crack.
Hell Crack VS 4b ***
Nice grit jamming through a bulge. will spit out those not confident with there jamming! jamming cracks first thing in the morning arent a good idea and numb hands followed.
Time to move away from the cracks and onto the grit slopers
The Louisiana Rib VS 4c **
A great way to get confidence in friction and climbing above gear. A couple of delicate moves gets the heart pumping and the psych going.
The rock is now warm and the psych flowing.
Saliva E1 5b **
Time to start pushing the mind a bit further and get on something a little bold. the helmets on and were off. the only bit of gear for the first 5 metres and the crux is placed from the ground. How the hell did this get graded VS when it was done originally! Nice moves up a finger crack before a gearless 5 metre sloping diagonal traverse on small foot holds followed with a nut placed below your feet and seated by standing on it. Spicy and fun with a mildly terrifying finish due to ridiculous winds!
Morrison’s Redoubt E1 5b **
Continuing the bold theme we moved onto Morrisons Redoubt, a fun delicate little number which involved conor choosing a ledge to jump off in case I deemed it wise to fall. fun moves off small holds followed by easy but enjoyable climbing!
Day one over, lots of climbing done and haven’t been spanked by the grit… yet
Monday – Return of the grit
Back up to stanage we romped with Campbell at the helm setting a rather stiff pace! we were Dover wall bound
Nothing to do with Dover HVS 5a *
A great route to start the day. Juggy (Depending on what your opinion of jugs are) and overhanging, definitely got the blood pumping. One of the routes that helped coin the commonly used term of ‘grit jug’ meaning a sloper with damn awesome friction.
with psych and confidence high I jumped on Spearing the bearded clam E2 5c (awesome name) then was promptly thrown off into the hands of Cadden. In an attempt to stop me losing psych I stood up and started up the E1 next to it, On a Wing and a Prayer and was caught by cadden yet again. Determined not to lose psych I went round the corner onto the worryingly named route Taking a Winger
Taking a Winger E1 5b (Now given E2 5C)
3rd time lucky! in an attempt to keep psych and confidence I dragged myself up the bold slopey start to an unpleasant mantel and an easy finish. Psych not regained but atleast I got up something!
I continued my horrible form with slopey bold E1s by trying Pedlars Rib E1 5c, which was truly terrifying! no gear for the first 8 metres with the crux high up. needless to say Cadden caught me in his long gangly arms again.
Pedlars Slab HVS 5C
After so many fails with a rope tied round my waste I deemed it a good idea to ditch the rope to solo Pedlars slab. Truly lovely delicate climbing which helped get my head back in the game!
Fit as a butchers dog E1 5c
After all this falling off slopy bold crap the logical thing to do is find the nearest hard roof crack. Brutal thuggy grunting on painful jams left me about a quart low on blood and requiring skin grafts. nether the; less I won the battle and made it through the roof only to find that the route is hardly ever climbed and is filthy. unpleasant long reaches on dirty slippy slopers and poor gear made me never want to go near this route again
It was getting late so became time for soloing by sunlight, which made for a lovely end to the day. Grit had definitely fought back throwing me off 50% of the routes I tried.
Tuesday – back with a vengeance
the morning ritual is now starting to take shape. guineafowl alarm clock at 6:30 read till 7:30 coffee and chatting shite till 9 then slog up to stanage again.
not to be deterred by previous failings we got back on the grit.
Leaning Buttress direct HVS 5b ***
A top 50 route and worth it. Nothing gets you psyched like lovely enjoyable climbing. A tricky start followed by good gear and a couple of pulls on small holds then nice climbing to the top. Just awesome
Rusty Crack HVS 5C Solo
Thinking this was Via Media, a route I climbed 3 years ago I decided to solo it while waiting for cadden to pick his next route. Turns out I got the wrong route which confused me greatly. I couldnt work out why I found it do hard until stuart informed me of what it was. instead of a few 4c moves scattered throughout the route it was a 5c sequence to get off the ground with a couple of trickyish moves higher up. oops
Via Dexter direct E2 5C *
To the right of Rusty crack and Via media is a rather nice looking slab. unlike most grit, it has razor sharp crimps and underclings. A side runner in via media provides little protection and would probably not keep you off the ground if you fall off just above the crux unless your belayer takes a leap off a boulder. nice technical crimp climbing is fun but time for some brutal jamming…
The Unprintable E1 5b **
A must do route if you think you can jam. Brutal hanging groove gained with head height foot jams, kicking cams out the way as foot jams are more important, and heavy use of the knees until you can layback to glory.
Have to love jamming!
I have to catch my flight now but will finish this off … at some point!April 20, 2014 at 21:09 #1773JonathanKeymaster
My favourite lead of the trip was without question Twisting Crack S 4a. While I enjoyed learning to jam and climb slabs on the grit, this was a real classic juggy route. Given the perfect grade, it follows a slightly overhanging line on hidden but excellent jugs with awesome protection throughout. A great end to the trip :D.April 22, 2014 at 18:18 #1821ConorParticipant
So apparently this sounds better if one writes a detailed account rather than a list, so an attempt shall be made but as many on the trip will know the days blur together, so the days me be……inaccurate. I also know many of you will think this essay excessive, however I have nothing better to do so the result is this.
Discussed the merits of MacGuyver and his amazing mullet with O’Hagan and Campbell, sleeping rough in my own house as I left all sleeping materials in Newcastle, then first climb of the trip.
Wrong Side of the Bed V9
Difficult lying start, traverse by a rolling motion on to the floor, face on floor to finish.
With the trip fully underway we hoped on the bus and began the long journey to Sheffield, filled with Super-Huns (Michael Campbell must make a full report) and driving south to get to the north. Landed at the campsite, set up the tent and fell into a fitful sleep, dreaming of grit and rice pudding.
Day-the first day of climbing
Walking up to Stanage, pestering Prebble by pointing at every rock on the way and asking “Is this grit?” and if the answer is yes promptly molesting the poor vulnerable stone, eager to get my first taste of gritstone.
Step-ladder crack VS 5a
My first lead of the trip and I’m back to my old tricks, standing on a ledge 1.5m off the ground, deciding whether to back off or not, but pride will not allow me to suffer any taunts on the first day and I manage to make it to the top.
Mississippi Buttress Direct VS 4c
Don’t remember much about this other than it being close to Step-Ladder crack on the crag, and sadly this may happen for several of my climbs (however not a comment on the climbs themselves, every climb was spectacular and distinct, but there were many of them).
Pixie VS 4c
A nice slopey grit climb, first bold feeling lead, though this was likely down to my poor gear finding skills early on in the trip.
Devil’s Chimney Diff
After being inspired by O’Hagan’s efforts and noises on Devil’s Chimney I decided to give it a go, ditch the gear as it looks like a tight squeeze. Thrutching, grunting and squirming goodness all the way, and some laughing at Campbell as his head was too big to fit at one point. I then contemplated doing guided tours with a commentary on the struggles faced by Michael at each stage of the chimney, sadly I couldn’t get the start-up funds together so the dream fizzled away.
Day over, 3 leads and 4 seconds, good day done.
Day-up the grade day
Start with a nice consolidation of VS grade.
Dover’s Wall Route 4 VS 4b
Nice bit of grit, suggested by Campbell. Very awkward but fun final couple of moves, reaching up to a prow shaped bulge that required a strategic cutting-loose to look over the top to find holds to drag myself over the top, in what would later be classified as a “classic Cadden top-out” as I was overall the least dignified top-out artist on the trip, never failing to provide amusement for casual observers taking their dogs for a walk.
First HVS lead of the trip.
Dover’s Wall Route 2 HVS 5a
Fun slightly overhanging finish, though the legitimacy of the finish could be questioned as i finished about 1 m to the right of the guide book’s description.
Pedlar’s Arete HVS 5b
Face-climbing-no-jamming-only-crimping glory line. After several down-climbs to scout out what little gear is available I select a nice pink size 1 nut and go up to place it as the second piece of gear, have to place it blind but no problem, scouted the placement at least 3 times and it feels snug. Climb on to lovely crimp rail, bit run out but no problem that nut is solid! Finish up well, then Prebble seconds up and delivers the news that it was….less than amazing, hmmmmm.
Pedlar’s Slab HVS 5c solo
Looks fun, the crux is low down with no gear for the route so it has to be soloed, try it a few times and down climb before making the last crux move. Later on feel like it would be a nice one to finish the day on, give it one try and if you don’t go for the move then walk away. Last crux move to go, want to down climb, unfortunately feet wont hold if I try to down climb, have to go up. Didn’t fall, finished route, good finish to the day. First Oops of the trip.
HVS grade achieved, Oop count so far: 1.
Day-17, a day of confusion
I will first say that the events of day 17 and day tomorrow are not a blur, however exactly which events occurred on which of these two days is.
Rusty Crack HVS 5c (Via Media VS 4c)
Beginning of the day and I think I’ll start with a nice VS to warm up as everything hurts from what feels like weeks of climbing at this point. After some down climbs from the low crux I eventually punch through thinking “that didn’t feel 4c, maybe I’ve lost the grit groove?”. After the crux a concerned President asked what we were on, then told us we were wrong and that we were on Rusty Crack, second Oops of the trip. Gear was plentiful above the start and solid too. A lovely finger crack layback to start the day.
Queersville HVS 5a
After the “warm-up” at Rusty Crack I decided to continue the run of HVS grade, after all, Stuart had just said something along the lines of “mumble…..lead Queersville, its scary but good fun and I reckon you could manage it”. So onwards I trotted with a scary mantle, a nest of nuts, one of which was some poor soul which couldn’t be reclaimed, and all the beta that fitted in my head at one time. It was later reviled that the encouragement to climb Queersville had been directed at Prebble and I had misunderstood, Oops number three.
Flying Buttress Direct HVS 5b
A combination of photos and being told it was a Stanage must was all the encouragement I needed, though reassurance that the crux was well protected helped greatly. After nest building to rival a pigeon, I was then saved from future rope drag by Thomas reminding me to extend the cam in the roof, which was much appreciated. This was the last rational thought I had that day before my brain imploded, all other thoughts were then derivatives of “I’m Alive!”.
Crack Thing Campbell’s Variant (not a real climb, but a good thrutch all the same)
Some strange and dark recess of Stanage called to me, it seemed an obvious route, but in the guidebook the route marked didn’t delve into the depths enough for my liking. I sought to rectify this and began the decent into darkness. The first attempt resulted in wriggling out of a small hole at the back of the roof crack, however Michael was a tad more ambitious than I. About half way between the opening at the back of the crack and the edge of the face there is a thin “opening”, more of a widening of the crack than “opening”, which was larger than Prebble’s head. This of course indicated a path, a destiny if you will, that Michael took upon himself to fulfill. Were he a more American man he might have said something like, “Duuuuude, this like, totally sick line must be freed, lend me your chakras as I do some warm up yoga”. Thankfully he is not American and got on with it, but the age old problem of Michael’s head size stood in the way. As a smaller-headed individual I gave it a go, though for about 10-30 seconds I became significantly…….stuck. And in that moment I thought “I’m going to suffocate to death on a route that isn’t even in the guide book….”. Thankfully I coughed a smoker’s cough and slipped through slightly more appreciative of open spaces than I had gone in with. +1 Oops.
At the end of the day the Oops count was 4, and the amount of sunburn on the back of my hands was that of a man who had lathered them in cooking oil.
Day-Tomorow, or possibly day 17
Namenlos HVS 5a
Worthy of the stars, lovely finger crack with ring-locks to start, with a bold and delicate ramp with some hard choices between handholds and gear, followed by a short chimney and a perfect start to the day. In my opinion a brilliant climb, not reflected in the length of the report only because there were no mishaps.
Symbiosis HVS 4c
Bold at the top and a lovely slab climb. Perhaps not a fun as Namenlos but still good, was very impressive to watch Michael lead it as I think his first HVS lead (well done sir!). Wind at the top gave both of us some bother.
Marmalade’s Lost Start…….solo
Oops again, was heartily reprimanded for it by Thomas and rightly so, shant be doing anything similar any time soon as I hope I’ve learned my lesson. That is all.
All in all my leads were fun but not as impressive as Cambell on Symbiosis and Prebble on Telli E3 6a. Oops count at the end of the day: 5.
Day-Froggat day, possibly Thursday
Sunset Slab HVS 4b
Sadly the mind goes blank, other than to say it was very bold and that again impressive to see Michael lead it afterwards as his second HVS lead (once again, congratulations sir!).
Tody’s Wall HVS 5a
I was pointed at this and told that there was a silly rock-over move as the crux, my style, it was destiny. Comical mounting of the first block was finally overcome and all that was left was the rock-over of legend. After this was complete, it proceed to a beautiful crack with many a fingerlock, layback and hand jam (though I will deny any accusations of actually jamming, merely using unusual layback techniques).
Chequers Buttress HVS 5a
Very fun, somehow managed to thrutch the chimney rather than use the obvious crack. I then proceeded to ignore the guide book and Thomas’s instructions further by traversing left using the handholds as footholds to the arete. The arete felt more exposed than it was, simply as it seems to hover over nothing.
Day-last of the climbing, last of the suffering, last of the hands and last of the Ale.
The goal of the last day was to equal Thomas and I’s unrepeated 7 routes (sans solos) in a day and go for not just the grades, but the best quality climbs of the grades.
Cave Arete HVS 5a
Sadly this is another route which will be poorly reported due to my failing memory. The best I can recall is that Prebble came up with some overly complicated reasoning as to why the red nut goes everywhere, and that the belay is in a cave and thus was perfect as this was the sunniest and hottest day of the trip, so I avoided the worst of the sun for a while.
Whillan’s Pendulum and Black Magic HVS 5b
A lovely lanky and bouldery start, followed by slopey grit breaks. Sadly another victim of my bad memory. It was, however the only climb I had to queue for. What is this place? An indoor wall!?!?!
Good Friday HVS 5b
I can honestly say that 20% of the reason I did this was because I wanted an HVS tick, 40% because the face looked so perfect and delicate, and 40% was because Thomas had pointed out how fitting it was to climb Good Friday on Good Friday. Lovely hand-traverse with smearing feet, then a hard rock-over to begin delicate climbing non-existant holds between breaks with good cams in the breaks.
Highlights of the trip? Consolidation of HVS, watching Michael Campbell get his first two HVS leads, belaying Thomas Prebble while he climbed several impressive climbs, pie, rice pudding and being to tired too eat at one point (clear indication of climbing hard enough). Total Oops count: 5.
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